☕ Sally’s Place – Coffee Shop & Roadside Stop

 ☕ Sally’s Place – Coffee Shop & Roadside Stop

4.5

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Coffee shop

·

A$1–20

·

Open

What it is:

Sally’s Place is a local café/coffee stop in Sutton Forest, New South Wales. It’s rated well by visitors (around 4.5⭐ from reviews) and appears to be a casual, friendly spot — ideal for a coffee break, light breakfast, brunch or snack as you travel along the Hume Highway.

Location:

📍 13125 Hume Highway, Sutton Forest NSW 2579, Australia

This places it right along the main route between Sydney and Canberra (stop on way to Canberra), making it a convenient stop for travellers and locals alike.

Atmosphere & offerings:

A coffee shop / casual eatery that serves coffee, light meals, and likely breakfast/lunch items.

Price range suggests it’s affordable (approximately A$1–20 for basics).

Open daily 7:00 am to 5:00 pm — good for morning coffee or a daytime stop.

Reviews suggest it’s well-liked for its relaxed vibe and quality drinks/food (though specifics vary by visitor).

Who it’s good for:

Travellers on the Hume Highway looking for a break and good coffee.

Locals meeting for a casual morning tea or brunch.

Anyone exploring the Southern Highlands countryside and stopping along local roads.

why the “1-3X Root Activator Shampoo, SPARTAN Hair Loss Shampoo, Shampoo Root Activator” you bought on eBay doesn’t actually have “SPARTAN” printed on the bottles — even though the listing or description says “SPARTAN”:

 

🧴 1. Many listings are actually unbranded products

Third-party marketplaces (including some eBay and Fruugo sellers) list the product as “SPARTAN Hair Loss Shampoo” but the brand field is shown as Unbranded in the item specifics. This suggests the seller is using the name “SPARTAN” in the title for search/marketing, not because the packaging truly has that brand printed.

🏷️ 2. The seller titles may include the brand name even if the bottle doesn’t

Online marketplaces let sellers insert keywords (e.g., “SPARTAN,” “Root Activator”) into the title or description to attract buyers, even if the actual bottle has a generic label. This is common with imported or white-label products — items made in bulk without a strong brand printed.

📦 3. Possible grey-market or third-party “private label” bottles

Some sellers may be selling repackaged or repurposed product from a generic manufacturer in China or elsewhere with generic labels. The listings you saw — some even list Brand: Unbranded — support this.

❓ 4. Authenticity and legitimacy concerns about the product

Independent reviews and consumer discussions online raise red flags about the brand Spartan itself — some people describe it as overhyped, with questionable marketing, or potentially scam-like (e.g., unverified claims, stock photos, hard-to-get refunds). That doesn’t directly explain the missing label, but it highlights why packaging might not match official marketing images.

🧪 5. There is a “Spartan” branded version elsewhere

Official Spartan product pages (e.g., from a Spartan shampoo site) do show branded bottles with specific styling and logos on their site — but products sold on Amazon or direct from the official site may not look like the generic bottles sold on eBay listings.

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🤔 What this means for you

• If the bottle you received has no SPARTAN brand name, it’s likely not the official branded product described in some ads.

• Sellers sometimes label items with brand names for marketing even if the product itself is generic or private-label.

• This doesn’t necessarily mean the product is dangerous, but it does mean it might not be the genuine Spartan formula or packaging.

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🧠 Tips to avoid this in future

1. Check seller photos — look for actual images of the bottle with the brand name, not stock images.

2. Check the “Brand” field on eBay listings — if it says “Unbranded” but the title says a brand name, that’s a red flag.

3. Compare with official product pages on a brand’s own site (not just third-party ads).

capital gain tax implications in Australia for selling your property

Here’s a clear breakdown of the capital gains tax (CGT) implications in Australia when selling your apartment, including key exemptions, how tax is worked out, and common scenarios:

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🧾 1. Is CGT applied when you sell your apartment?

✅ Main Residence (Home)

If the apartment was your main place of residence (your home), you may not have to pay any CGT when you sell it. This is because of the main residence exemption. (Australian Taxation Office)

To qualify for the exemption:

• You and your family lived there as your home.
• It was genuinely your “main residence” (mail delivered there, personal belongings present, etc.).
• You didn’t use it to produce income (e.g., rent it out).
• The land is less than 2 hectares. (Australian Taxation Office)

If all conditions are met, you generally don’t pay CGT on the gain from the sale. (Australian Taxation Office)

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🏠 2. Temporary Absence Rule (6-year rule)

If you lived in the unit as your main residence but then moved out, you might still get full CGT exemption for up to 6 years after you stop living there — even if you rent it out. That is, you can treat it as your main residence for CGT purposes during that period. (Australian Taxation Office)

Key points:

• You can keep applying this exemption for up to 6 years if it’s rented out.
• If you don’t rent it, you can treat it as your main residence indefinitely after moving out (as long as you don’t nominate another main residence) — sometimes called the absence rule. (Australian Taxation Office)
• You can only claim it for one property at a time. (Australian Taxation Office)

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🏢 3. Investment Property (Rental or Not Your Main Residence)

If your apartment was an investment property — meaning:

• You never lived in it as your main residence, or
• You lived in it only part of the time, or
• You rented it out for part/all of the time —

then CGT will apply when you sell. (Australian Taxation Office)

How CGT is worked out:

1. Calculate your capital gain or loss:
• Sale price minus cost base (what you paid plus certain expenses like stamp duty and capital improvements). (Australian Taxation Office)
2. Apply the 50% discount (if you’ve owned the property for 12+ months):
• Individuals can halve the gain for tax purposes if the asset was held for over 12 months. (NerdWallet)
3. Report the adjusted gain as part of your taxable income in the year the sale contract is signed. (Australian Taxation Office)

This means the effective tax you pay depends on your total taxable income and your marginal tax rate.

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📌 4. Foreign Residents Selling Australian Property

If you are not an Australian resident for tax purposes at the time of sale, you generally cannot claim the main residence exemption — even if you once lived there. This can significantly increase your CGT liability. (Australian Taxation Office)

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🧑‍💼 5. When Do You Pay the Tax?

CGT is triggered on the contract signing date, not the settlement date. So you need to include the gain (or loss) in your tax return for the year in which you signed the contract to sell. (Australian Taxation Office)

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🧠 6. Useful Practical Scenarios

✔ You lived in the apartment your whole ownership

➡ Likely no CGT under the main residence exemption. (Australian Taxation Office)

✔ You lived there and then rented it out (sold within 6 years)

➡ You may still get full exemption under the temporary absence (6-year) rule. (Australian Taxation Office)

https://www.ato.gov.au/individuals-and-families/investments-and-assets/capital-gains-tax/property-and-capital-gains-tax/your-main-residence---home/treating-former-home-as-main-residence?utm_source=chatgpt.com

✔ You never lived in it — it was always a rental

➡ CGT applies; apply the 50% discount if held 12+ months. (Australian Taxation Office)

✔ You lived in it part of the time

➡ You’ll generally get a partial exemption based on the time it was truly your main residence. (Australian Taxation Office)

https://www.ato.gov.au/forms-and-instructions/capital-gains-tax-guide-2022/part-a-about-capital-gains-tax/real-estate-and-main-residence?anchor=Constructing_renovating_or_repairing_a_d&utm_source=chatgpt.com#ato-Partialexemption

✔ You were a foreign tax resident when you sold

➡ No main residence exemption — CGT is likely fully payable. (Australian Taxation Office)

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🧾 Summary of Key Points

Situation	CGT Outcome
Main residence the entire time	No CGT
Lived in it, then rented, sold within 6 years	Possibly no CGT
Investment property	CGT applies (50% discount if >12 months)
Partial main residence	Pro-rata CGT applies
Foreign resident on sale	CGT applies, exemption usually not allowed

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📌 Next Steps and Tips

• Keep good records: purchase price, dates you lived there, rental income periods, costs of improvements.
• Talk to a tax professional or accountant for precise calculations — especially for partial exemptions or foreign residency situations.
• Use ATO tools like the CGT property exemption calculator to estimate your own situation. (Australian Taxation Office)

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If you want, I can help walk you through your specific situation (e.g., how long you owned it, whether you rented it, residency status) and estimate the likely CGT. Just let me know!

 

REF: Guidance only. consult with specialists.

🏡 Who qualifies as a first home buyer

https://www.revenue.nsw.gov.au/grants-schemes/assistance-scheme?utm_source=chatgpt.com#heading1

 

 Summary

Requirement	Must be true
First time owning in Australia	✔
At least 18	✔
Individual (not company/trust)	✔
Australian citizen or permanent resident	✔ (at least one buyer)
Property value	≤ $800K (full exemption) or $800K–$1M (concessional)
Live in the property	Move in within 12 months + live 12 months

A car radiator is a key part of your car’s cooling system.

 A car radiator is a key part of your car’s cooling system. Its job is to stop the engine from overheating.

What it does (simple explanation)

When your engine runs, it gets very hot. The radiator:

Receives hot coolant (liquid) from the engine

Cools the coolant by passing air through thin metal fins

Sends the cooled coolant back to the engine

This cycle keeps the engine at a safe operating temperature.

Where it is

Usually at the front of the car, behind the grille

This position helps air flow cool it while driving

Main parts connected to the radiator

Coolant (antifreeze) – absorbs engine heat

Radiator hoses – carry coolant to and from the engine

Radiator fan – pulls air through when the car is stopped or slow

Thermostat – controls when coolant flows to the radiator

Why it’s important

If the radiator fails:

Engine can overheat

May cause engine damage, warped parts, or blown head gasket

Vocabs

It’s called a radiator because it radiates heat away from the engine.

The word origin

Radiate = to give off or spread heat

Radiator = something that gives off heat

The name comes from Latin radiare, meaning “to emit rays” or “shine”.

Why the name makes sense

Even though a car radiator mainly cools liquid:

Hot coolant flows through thin metal tubes

Heat spreads out into the metal fins

Air passing through carries the heat away

So the heat is released (radiated) into the air, cooling the engine.

Fun fact

Home heaters are also called radiators — they do the opposite job (warming rooms by radiating heat)

In cars, the radiator’s job is to get rid of heat, not create it

Common radiator problems

Coolant leaks

Blockage or rust inside

Overheating warning light

Sweet smell (coolant)

“Intake runner control circuit low – Bank 1” is an engine fault code

“Intake runner control circuit low – Bank 1” is an engine fault code (OBD-II).

Here’s what it means in plain language:

What the code means

Intake runner: Movable flaps/valves inside the intake manifold that adjust airflow into the engine to improve low-RPM torque and fuel efficiency.

Control circuit low: The engine computer (ECU) is detecting lower than expected voltage in the electrical circuit that controls the intake runner.

Bank 1 (B1): The side of the engine that contains cylinder #1.

👉 In short:

The ECU thinks the intake runner actuator on Bank 1 isn’t getting enough electrical power or signal.

Common OBD code numbers

You’ll often see this described as:

P2015

P2008

P2017

(depending on vehicle make)

Common causes

Faulty intake runner actuator / motor

Broken or loose wiring (short to ground)

Corroded or unplugged connector

Vacuum leak (if vacuum-controlled system)

Stuck intake runner flap (carbon buildup)

Rarely: ECU issue

Possible symptoms

Check Engine Light on 🚨

Poor acceleration (especially at low RPM)

Rough idle

Reduced fuel economy

Engine may feel sluggish or hesitant

(Some cars show no noticeable symptoms.)

Is it serious?

Not immediately dangerous, but:

Performance and fuel economy suffer

Ignoring it long-term can cause other intake or emissions issues

What to do next

Scan the exact code (P20xx)

Visually inspect wiring & connectors

Check if the intake runner moves freely

Test the actuator voltage

Clean carbon buildup if accessible

Repair cost (rough guide)

Wiring fix: $50–$200

Actuator replacement: $200–$600

Intake manifold replacement (worst case): $800–$2,000+

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Mechanic suggestions 

Did you take things off in car 

have to find replacement, can be pretty hard. Can have many causes/ things hard to know. Have to leave car with mechanic for 2 days or so. 

car will not stop. Temperatures are kinda more important, high ones.

If happen again, will do free of charge. Give him a message. $40 for testing / diagnostic

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1000 r/min on a car dashboard or manual means:

👉 1,000 revolutions per minute (RPM)

What it refers to

r/min = revolutions per minute

It shows how fast the engine crankshaft is spinning

Same thing as RPM

So:

1000 r/min = 1000 RPM

Where you see it

On the tachometer (rev counter):

Numbers are often shown as 1, 2, 3…

Each number = × 1000 r/min

Example:

Needle at 1 → 1000 RPM

Needle at 2.5 → 2500 RPM

What 1000 r/min means in real driving

Normal idle speed is usually:

600–900 RPM (engine warm)

1000 RPM:

Slightly high idle (cold engine or AC on)

Normal when warming up

Normal when lightly pressing the accelerator

Why cars use “r/min” instead of RPM

r/min is the SI unit

Used in Japanese and European manuals (Mazda, Toyota, Honda, BMW)

On your 2007 Mazda 3

Cold start idle: ~1000–1200 r/min

Warm idle: ~650–800 r/min ✔ Both are normal

It measures both — all the time the engine is running.

How RPM (r/min) works

The tachometer shows the engine’s current speed in real time, not just at start-up.

1. When you start the engine

RPM jumps up briefly (often 1000–1500 r/min)

This is a cold start fast idle

Helps warm the engine and stabilise combustion

2. While the car is running (driving)

RPM constantly changes depending on:

Accelerator pedal

Gear you’re in

Vehicle speed

Engine load (AC, uphill, passengers)

Example:

Idling at traffic lights: ~700–800 r/min

City driving: 1500–3000 r/min

Highway cruising: 2000–2500 r/min

Hard acceleration: 4000+ r/min

Important to know

If the engine is off → RPM = 0

If the engine is on → RPM is always being measured and displayed

For your Mazda 3

Seeing around:

1000–1200 r/min after cold start → normal

Dropping to ~700 r/min once warm → normal

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What it means on a 2007 Mazda 3

“Intake runner control circuit low – Bank 1” means:

👉 The IMRC actuator or solenoid on the intake manifold is receiving low electrical voltage, or the ECU thinks it is.

On the Mazda 3, Bank 1 = the only engine bank (it’s an inline 4-cylinder).

Engines commonly affected

2.0L MZR (BK series)

2.3L MZR

Both use a vacuum-operated intake runner system controlled by an electrical solenoid.

Common Mazda-specific causes

These are very common on this model:

1. IMRC solenoid failure (MOST COMMON)

Solenoid goes weak or shorts internally

Causes low voltage reading

Very common after 100,000 km+

2. Vacuum hose problems

Cracked, brittle, or disconnected vacuum lines

Especially near the intake manifold

3. Wiring issue at the solenoid

Oil contamination in connector

Broken wire near the plug

Corrosion

4. Intake runner stuck (carbon buildup)

Flaps stuck open or closed

ECU commands movement but sees no response

Typical symptoms

Check Engine Light 🚨

Sluggish acceleration at low RPM

Hesitation when taking off

Sometimes no noticeable symptoms at all

Most likely fault codes on Mazda 3

P2004 – Intake runner stuck open

P2006 – Intake runner stuck closed

P2008 – IMRC circuit low (very common)

P2015 – Position sensor range issue

What I’d check first (DIY-friendly)

Locate IMRC solenoid

On or near the intake manifold

Check vacuum hoses

Look for cracks or loose hoses

Unplug & inspect connector

Look for corrosion or oil

Listen for clicking

With ignition ON, solenoid should click briefly

Clear code & test drive

Repair cost (Australia estimate)

IMRC solenoid: $120–$300

Vacuum hose repair: $20–$80

Labour: $100–$250

Worst case (intake manifold): $700–$1,500 (rare)

Can you keep driving?

✔ Yes, short-term

❌ Not ideal long-term (fuel economy & performance suffer)

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 An "Intake Runner Control Circuit Low Bank 1" problem (often DTC P2009) means the engine's computer detects a voltage signal that's too low in the circuit controlling the intake manifold runner flaps on Bank 1, suggesting issues with the actuator, wiring, or sensors, leading to rough idling, poor acceleration, and reduced fuel economy, as the system can't adjust air intake for optimal performance. 

What it means

Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC): A system with flaps inside the intake manifold that change runner length to improve torque at low RPMs and power at high RPMs.

Circuit Low: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) sees a voltage signal lower than expected from the IMRC actuator or position sensor.

Bank 1: Refers to the side of the engine that contains cylinder #1 (important for V6, V8 engines). 

Common Causes

Faulty IMRC Actuator/Motor: The motor that moves the flaps can fail or break.

Wiring Issues: Damaged, corroded, or loose wires/connectors in the circuit.

Stuck Runner Flaps: The flaps themselves can get carbon-bound and stuck, preventing movement.

Sensor Malfunction: The IMRC position sensor might be sending incorrect signals.

PCM/ECU Problem: In rare cases, the control module itself has an internal fault. 

Symptoms

Check Engine Light (DTC P2009).

Rough idling or engine surging.

Hesitation or poor performance during acceleration.

Reduced fuel economy.

Engine may go into "Limp Mode". 

What to Do

Diagnosis: A mechanic uses a scan tool to check live data and voltage, inspect wiring, and test the actuator.

Repair: Fixes range from cleaning carbon from flaps, repairing wiring, replacing the actuator, or sometimes replacing the entire intake manifold if the actuator isn't sold separately.